Maire Colclough

sewing, crafting & occasional time-travel

Author: Maire

  • Three Pairs of Pants (and what I learned making them)

    Three Pairs of Pants (and what I learned making them)

    I fell in love with the Helen’s Closet Falconer Pants, and immediately tried to make a pair. When I found I had issues with the fit, I moved to the next pair on my list…

    This is the story of how I tried to make one pair of pants and instead, made three. In three different styles. And if you stay to the end of the video, you’ll find out what I learned from the experience. Though the entire video has been a learning experience.

    ~ / Mentioned / ~
    Helen’s Closet Falconer Pants
    Sew House Seven Oxbow Pants
    Muna and Broad Noice Jeans

    Crooked Hem (Blog)
    Crooked Hem TDCO Playlist
    Crooked Hem YT Channel: @thecrookedhem
    J Stern YT Channel: @JSternDesigns

    Threads Magazine article on Top Down Centre Out Fitting

  • Fear of a Sad Beige Planet

    Fear of a Sad Beige Planet

    In which I make the Breeze Shirt by Twig and Tale in a soft lemon yellow, and the Ruby Overalls by Helen’s Closet in a nice fuzzy lavender corduroy.

    I grew up in the 80s, when colour was everywhere. My response to that overstimulation was to gravitate to a mostly-black wardrobe. The current generation appears to have headed in a primarily beige direction. This video is my exploration of that tendency, and my logical reaction – to head the opposite direction and use colour.

    ~ / Mentioned / ~
    Breeze Shirt (Curve) by Twig and Tale
    Ruby Overalls by Helen’s Closet
    Swatch
    Keith Haring (Wikipedia)
    Chip & Pepper (Wikipedia)
    Memphis Group (Wikipedia)

  • When Plus Size Representation Sucks

    When Plus Size Representation Sucks

    I recently made a video about some of the plus size inclusive sewing brands I’ve encountered, and the entire time I was writing and rewriting what I wanted to say, I was editing out small recurring rants about the Big 4+ pattern company (Simplicity, McCalls, Butterick, Vogue and their comparatively newer acquisitions or sub-brands Burda Style, Know Me and  New Look). The Big 4+’s issues with plus size representation and inclusive sizing has been an ongoing battle. A battle that seems to spill out onto the independent companies either using the Big 4+ as a template for their own business, or in response to the Big 4’s ambivalence.

    But whether it’s commercial companies or Independents, this has been a problem on a large scale for years. Not apologizing for the pun. 

    It brings up some interesting questions: 

    Who does inclusive sewing and representation effect? How much plus is enough plus?

    IS sewing inclusive? Particularly during the present time?

    What should we expect from designers and brands?

    Does the size of the company matter when discussing the size of the customer?

    How can brands be more inclusive and promote plus size representation?

    Why does any of this matter?

    Let’s talk about it!

    divider image

    ~ / Mentioned / ~

    Daughter Judy Patterns
    Loose Leaf: All About the Rebrand

    The Big 4+ Patternmakers
    Cashmerette
    Sew House 7
    Tiana Herring
    @tianaherringpatterns 
    Itch to Stitch
    Son de Flor
    Twig and Tale
    Linennaive
    Silversaga Patterns

  • Plus Size Sewing Patterns (and where to find them)

    Plus Size Sewing Patterns (and where to find them)

    It seems like a lot of our usual go-to resources for sewing are quickly being merged and sold off. In a world where fast-fashion barely fits the lean and svelte without issue, what’s a plus-size person to do? Especially if they want to make their own everyday fantasy wardrobe?

    In this video I talk about plus size sewing & costuming patterns and where to find them now that tissue patterns are becoming scarce. On a local level, at least.

    ~ / Mentioned / ~

    Plus Size Youtubers worth watching:

    Rebecca of Pocket Full of Poseys
    Ashley Main Makes
    Jillian Eve
    Lady Rebecca Fashions
    Stephanie Canada
    The Curated Curvy
    With Love, Kristina
    MaybeBre
    Amy of Melbourne
    Aaronica B. Cole
    Fantastical Follies Costuming

    Useful Sites:

    Curvy Coven UK
    Threadloop
    My Next Make
    Patternreview.com
    Curvy Sewing Collective
    Plus Size Pattern Companies – (2020 Update)

    Books:

    Janet Arnold Patterns of Fashion
    Norah Waugh books (Amazon affiliate link)
    Medieval Garments Reconstructed

    Pattern Companies:

    The Big 4 (Simplicity, McCalls, Butterick, Vogue, NewLOOK, KnowMe, BurdaStyle)
    Black Snail Patterns
    Truly Victorian
    Redthreaded
    Laughing Moon Mercantile
    Farthingales Corset Making Supply
    Margo Anderson
    I missed Scroop Patterns!
    Cashmerette
    Helen’s Closet
    Closet Core and Deer & Doe
    Friday Pattern Company
    Sew Liberated
    Seamwork
    Muna and Broad
    Twig & Tale
    Sew House 7
    Jennifer Lauren Handmade
    Charm Patterns
    Tilly and the Buttons
    Daughter Judy
    Wildflower Design
    Syd Graham Patterns
    Tiana Herring
    Ora Lin Patterns
    Cinnamon Daisy Studio
    Love Notions
    Ellie and Mac
    Made for Mermaids
    Patterns for Pirates

    Other Stuff:

    Reddit Craftsnark: So what’s the deal with Patterns for Pirates and Made for Mermaids?

  • Tartan, Punk and Huge Pockets: the Juniper Dress

    Tartan, Punk and Huge Pockets: the Juniper Dress

    There are two – maybe three – things I think about when I think tartan.

    Myths about Scottish heritage, its ubiquity amongst the snobby set, and punk.

    I found some fantastic tartan fabric at Marshall Fabric and while I first thought they might become pants (after all, what’s more punk than tartan pants?), this dress by Tiana Herring caught my fancy instead!

    Join me as I make the Juniper Dress by Tiana Herring and talk about tartan, plaid, and resistance.

    ~ / Mentioned / ~

     @RoseryApparel 

    Vivienne Westwood Noble
    Brief History of Tartan
    National Geographic: Tartan Plaid Real History
    Act of Proscription 1746
    History of Tartan
    Wikipedia: Tartan
    The Origins of Tartan
    Discover Britain: Tartan History

  • I Made Plus Size Edwardian French Drawers

    I Made Plus Size Edwardian French Drawers

    Edwardian French Drawers. They sound a little exotic, don’t they? All the pictures I’ve seen have featured very shapely, slender ladies sporting shaped flounces frothing at the hem with lace trim.

    I worried that they’d hang wrong on me, or that they’d look ridiculous, but in the end, I’m very happy with my reproduction French drawers.

    I used Truly Victorian pattern TVE02 – Edwardian Underwear to make the drawers. This is probably – so far- the most cottage core item of clothing in my wardrobe. I originally planned to make and talk about both the French drawers and a corset cover. Unfortunately, the drawers were more involved than I thought they would be! There was a lot of hand-sewing, particularly on the facings and hem. I also hand-sewed the lace trim into place, as well as the buttonhole.

    I shot the reveal in my parents’ back garden. The weather was beautiful, but I chose the absolute wrong time of day. It was late afternoon by the time I was able to get my makeup on and my gear packed in the car for the trip. As a result, I was shooting directly into the sun – the nicest flowers in the garden are in the west. Whoops. That said, I still had a good time setting up cameras and posing. I hope the neighbours aren’t too confused!

    Edwardian French Drawers
    Hot Girl Summer

    My main worry was that I might accidentally show more of my body than intended. You usually make Edwardian French Drawers with an open crotch area. This is for practical reasons, Having to use the washroom in a hip-hugging corset in the early 1900’s could really cause some drama in the ladies’ restroom. The drawers are actually very modest. I wore them with my chemise tucked in. If anything, the tucked-in chemise gave the drawers a little bit more poof!

    And we all know how important it is to wear well-ventilated clothing in the middle of a heat wave. Seriously, we’re sitting at 32 degrees Celsius right now. Hiding in my basement office is a wonderful way to spend the day.

    In this week’s video, I also rant about the pattern industry and the way it still refuses to put serious acknowledgement into the plus-size community. Perhaps this is something that deserves a blog post of its own.

    While smaller, independant designers are doing their best to cater to the growing demand for patterns of all sizes, the large pattern companies with actual budgets still seem to deliberately shoot themselves in the metaphorical foot when it comes to doing the simplest things to promote and sell patterns for larger bodies. It’s frustrating. Particularly at a time when sewing clothing is making a comeback due to the cottage core aesthetic and sustainable practices. How maddening.

    That aside, I do hope you’ll check out my video. Please leave a like and a comment about my new (perhaps not-so-surprisingly modest) Edwardian underwear! I’m already working on the Corset Cover, and am progressing steadily toward the rest of my Edwardian outfit.

  • Junk in the Trunk?

    Junk in the Trunk?

    Edwardian Family Photos and Capsule Wardrobe

    I inherited my Great-Grandmother’s ornate steamer trunk sometime in the late 1980s. Squirrelled away inside were a few oddities. The most interesting were the photographs.

    They’re the subject of this week’s video.

    A Trunk Full of Inspiration

    I tried to decide which fashion era I want to tackle first. I asked Mum if she still had the original contents of my trunk. Perhaps they would be the inspiration I need?

    I worried. Were they lost in a move? We also had a basement flood in Yellowknife.

    Safe as a Box of Bran Flakes

    Thankfully, the contents were safe. Together, we sifted through pictures taken over 100 years ago in the Edwardian era. We even discovered an entirely forgotten branch of the family tree!

    Hand-made lace on collars, lapels and cuffs. Fur accessories. Extravagant hats. These are just a few of the treasures we discovered in our family photos.

    Join me as I start my journey into the Canadian Edwardian Era. Take a look at the inspiration for my upcoming Edwardian capsule wardrobe!

    Contents:

    00:00 – Introduction
    00:54 – YouTube and Project Management
    01:55 – Too Many Hobbies
    03:56 – Getting it Together
    05:22 – A Little Backstory
    07:40 – A Simple Chemise?
    09:05 – But seriously, what do you want to do?
    12:24 – A Potential Plan of Attack

    Music:

    Butterflies in Love – Sir Cubworth
    Divertissement – Kevin MacLeod
    Friendly Day – Kevin MacLeod
    Theme for a One-Handed Piano Concerto – Sir Cubworth

    Divertissement by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution licence (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)
    Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100256
    Artist: http://incompetech.com/

    Friendly Day by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution licence (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/)
    Source: http://incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1100223
    Artist: http://incompetech.com/

  • Bloody Wee Stitches: Crocheting Vintage Lace

    Bloody Wee Stitches: Crocheting Vintage Lace

    (and doing some planning)

    You would think I’d be done with lace after the shetland wool scarf, but you would be wrong. This week I’m working on some very fine crochet lace and using a podcast style to talk about plans for upcoming projects.

    Grab whatever you’re working on, whether it’s knitting, crochet, or sewing, and have a listen. This lace won’t crochet itself, you know!

    Lace pattern from:

    The Priscilla Yoke Book – Crochet and Tatting
    Courtesy the Antique Pattern Library

    00:00 – Introduction
    00:54 – YouTube and Project Management
    01:55 – Too Many Hobbies
    03:56 – Getting it Together
    05:22 – A Little Backstory
    07:40 – A Simple Chemise?
    09:05 – But seriously, what do you want to do?
    12:24 – A Potential Plan of Attack

    Music:
    Butterflies in Love – Sir Cubworth
    Two of Us – Saidbysed
    Sangria – Saidbysed

  • Knitting a Victorian Shetland Lace Scarf Pattern (in 2020)

    Knitting a Victorian Shetland Lace Scarf Pattern (in 2020)

    A 144-year-old Mystery Scarf

    Update: The pattern for this scarf is now available on Ravelry. I hope you find it as fun to knit as I did!

    In this week’s video, I delve into the world of vintage knitting patterns to make myself a Victorian Shetland Lace Scarf.

    The Victorian Shetland Lace Shawl, or Wedding Ring Shawl, is an iconic part of knitting lore. The more practical Shetland lace scarf, less so.

    The Victorian and Edwardian era(s) have seen a surge of popularity on costube recently. While everyone else is sewing corsets and combinations, I’ve been knitting a scarf. The Victorian Shawl is fairly well known, in both knitted and woven varieties, but scarves seem a more practical garment, meant for both prestige and warmth.

    A Victorian Shetland lace scarf, nestled amongst a parasol, teacup, fan and silver cigarette case. Or maybe that case is for calling cards?

    I found myself wandering through the Richard Rutt Collection on the University of Southampton’s knitting archive. I found myself intrigued by a scarf pattern in a book attributed only to “A Lady”.

    Could this be a pirated or missing Frances Lambert or Jane Gaugain pattern? Or could this be a traditional pattern contributed by a local knitter?

    I picked up my Addi Turbo needles and a skein of silk/wool blend, and determined to find out for myself.

    A Victorian Shetland lace scarf, nestled amongst a top hat, cane, and silver cigarette case. Or maybe that case is for calling cards?

    Along the way, I found myself wondering…just who is this scarf meant for? And what does knitting have to do with Gilbert and Sullivan, and Courtney Love? The answer might surprise you!

    Bibliography:

    Lovick, Elizabeth. The Same, but Different: Shetland Lace in a European Context. KBTH Lace Virtual Conference, March 2006 http://www.knittingbeyondthehebrides.org/lace/SameButDifferent.pdf

    Lady, A. The Home Knitter: A Manual For Making Useful Articles for the Family. Edinburgh: Johnstone, Hunter, & Co, 1876 https://archive.org/details/krl00376334/mode/2up

    Sowerby, Jane and Alexis Xenakis (Photographer). Victorian Lace Today. USA: XRX Inc, 2006. https://www.amazon.ca/Victorian-Lace-Today-Jane-Sowerby/dp/1933064102

    “The Richard Rutt Collection.” In the Loop – Knitting Collections, University of Southampton https://www.southampton.ac.uk/intheloop/collections/richard-rutt.page

    Sources for tracking pattern authorship & notes on IP piracy in the arts:

    Sowerby, Jane and Alexis Xenakis (Photographer). Victorian Lace Today. USA: XRX Inc, 2006. Knitting terms developed by Jane Gaugain: Page 15 Diamond Border Pattern by Jane Gaugain: Page 37 Piracy of Frances Lambert’s intellectual property: Page 41 https://www.amazon.ca/Victorian-Lace-Today-Jane-Sowerby/dp/1933064102

    Gilbert & Sullivan IP piracy (via Wikipedia page linked below) Rosen, Zvi S. The Twilight of the Opera Pirates: A Prehistory of the Right of Public Performance for Musical Compositions. Cardozo Arts & Entertainment Law Journal, Vol. 24, 2007, accessed 21 May 2007. See also Prestige, Colin. “D’Oyly Carte and the Pirates”, a paper presented at the International Conference of G&S held at the University of Kansas, May 1970 https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gilbert_and_Sullivan#cite_note-37

    Love, Courtney, “Courtney Love does the math.” Salon. June 14, 2000. https://www.salon.com/2000/06/14/love_7/

    Misc. Image Sources:

    Kendrick, C. – https://www.loc.gov/pictures/item/var1993000413/PP/, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=1235342

    Andrea Fleming – Courtney Love, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=67962433

    Sidney Paget (died 1908) – http://www.artintheblood.com/twis/twis9.htm, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=11274194

    David Shankbone – flickr, CC BY 2.0, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=10273439

    NASA/JPL-Caltech – NASA, Public Domain, https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=19525315

    Music:

    Music: Butterflies in Love – Sir Cubworth
    C Major Prelude – Bach
    Two of Us – Saidbysed
    Sangria – Saidbysed
    Dancing Star – Aakash Gandhi
    Divine Life Society – Jesse Gallagher
    Kiss the Sky – Aakash Gandhi

    Social Media:

    Web: http://www.inkyblack.net
    Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/people/Maire
    Twitter: https://twitter.com/StringchroniciT
    Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/stringchronicity/
    Twitch: https://www.twitch.tv/stringchronicity
    Ravelry Group: https://www.ravelry.com/groups/stringchronicity